Well folks, it’s time for another installment of Market Chef News Weekly! A little late this week, and for that we sincerely apologize. We may be a little late, but none-the-worse for ware; this weeks’ chef is a real Portland up-and-comer! We’re proud to introduce you fine people to fellow fine person, sous chef at Gruner, none other than Eric Purugganan!
Born and raised in Kenai Alaska, Eric grew up with flavors of the northwest on his tongue and in his blood. His father, a chef, was and is his greatest inspiration in the kitchen. At just 27, the senior chef Purugganan found himself representing his home state of Hawai’i at the 1968 World’s Fair as the executive chef of the Hawaiian Pavillion. Eric found that as a child the best way to spend time with his father was in the kitchen, helping out with the family catering business. From age 11 on, he could be found at his father’s side helping out. As he worked, he developed not only a firm grasp of the workings of a professional kitchen, but also a bone-deep love for the craft. Over time, other jobs came and went – the last of which was a relatively high-paying gig as a car salesmen – but it wasn’t long before chef Purugganan realized that happiness for him meant a life in the kitchen.
F
ollowing his passion at last, he moved to Portland from Alaska to pursue a culinary degree. Happy times in school lead to many wonderful jobs around town. Ryan O’Brien of the Portland City Grill was a particularly influential mentor, encouraging Purugganan to unleash his creative side by giving him freedom to develop dishes, and eventually even build an entire brunch program. At Gruner, Portland’s fabulous, minimalist outpost of “Alpine comfort food”, chef Purugganan can be found grinding meat for sausages, delicately assembling rich pork terrines, braising rabbits, and generally doing all the big manly, meaty sorts of things that make that Alpine comfort so darn comforting.
If you’ve ever been to the restaurant you’ve probably tasted the fruits of his labors, and tasty fruits they are! One of the most memorable bites that this writer has ever had in her life was at that very establishment, and as I spoke with him I couldn’t help myself. I flat out begged for a few tips that might help me recreate those unforgettable Beet-Pickled Eggs. So, now friends, I share the tips with you!
In his words: “horseradish, cornichon, garlic aioli, chives and parsley, salt.”
Well folks, it’s the best I could do. I’m going to venture that all those lovely things get folded in with the yolks, after the hard-boiled eggs themselves have had a nice little soak in some pickled beet juice. It may take a few trial and error sessions, but no one ever minds eating the leftover mess of a deviled egg tester batch – and with 4th of July around the corner, what’s an extra tray or two of imperfect deviled eggs? Have the neighbors over, they’ll be gone in a heartbeat and everyone will be happy.
Enjoy & we’ll see you at the market!
Last Sunday, Sophie Rahman showed us how to make three tasty Indian dishes using fresh ingredients from the market along with an array of exotic flavors. Here are the recipes! Sophie will be back at the Montavilla Farmers Market on July 10 to teach a class on Indian cooking. Students will shop the market to choose fresh produce, then return to Sophie’s kitchen to prepare a selection of simple, flavorful dishes. Contact Sophie if you would like to enroll in the class.
Beet Thoren (Beets with Coconut)
- 4 fresh medium beets (about 1 lb)
- 2 garlic cloves crushed
- ¾ cup grated unsweetened coconut
- 1 fresh green chili, split lengthwise
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon mustard seeds
- 2 dried red chilies
- 10-12 fresh kari leaves
- 1 tablespoon uncooked long-grain rice
Ground masala:
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- ¼ teaspoon cayenne
- ¼ teaspoon turmeric
Keep each of the ingredients prepared and measured as they will be added in rapid succession.
- Peel the beets and grate them using a food processor fitted with the coarse shredding disk, or on the coarse side of a box grater. Set aside.
- In a bowl combine the coconut, garlic, green chili, ground masala, and salt with about ¼ cup water for form a moist ball. Set aside.
- In a large wok heat the oil over medium high heat. Add the mustard seeds and cover. When the seeds have popped toss in the dried red chilies and kari leaves. After the leaves crackle for a few seconds put in the rice and stir for about 5 seconds or until rice turns opaque white. Add the grated beets and stir thoroughly. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally until the beets become soft. Add the coconut mixture and continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and check the salt.
Serves 6.
Gujarati Carrot Salad
- 12 oz carrots, trimmed peeled and coarsely grated
- 2 tablespoons canola oil
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- 2 teaspoons lemon or lime juice
- 2 tablespoons raisins (soaked in hot water for 2 – 3 hours) optional
- 1 tablespoon black mustard seeds
In a bowl, toss the grated carrots with the salt. Put the oil in a very small pan and set over medium heat. When the oil is very hot, put in the mustard seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds begin to pop – this takes just a few seconds, pour the contents of the pan – oil and seeds – over the carrots. Add the lemon juice and toss. You may serve this at room temperature or cold.
Serves 4 – 6
Alurbhaja (Potatoes with Panch Phoron*)
These can be eaten hot or at room temperature – they are great for picnics – as a filling in pitta pockets with sliced tomatoes and lettuce. The spice blend helps to ‘pickle’ the potatoes and keeps them from spoiling.
- 2 tablespoons mustard oil or canola oil
- ½ tsp ground turmeric
- 2 dried red chiles
- 1 ½ lb boiling potatoes, boiled, peeled and cut into 1” cubes
- 1 ½ tsp salt or to taste
- 2 tbs chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 teaspoon panch phoron *(See recipe below)
- 2 onions finely chopped
- 1 – 2 fresh green chiles such as Serrano, thinly sliced (for less heat remove pith & seeds)
- In a large non-stick fry-pan over medium heat, warm the oil. When hot, add the dried chiles and fry, stirring, until they are very dark, almost black, about I minute. Add the panch phoron and let the spices sizzle until they turn several shades darker about 30 seconds. Add the onions, fresh chiles and turmeric and cook stirring until the onions are lightly fried and golden about 5 minutes.
- Add the potatoes and salt, mix well and cook until the potatoes are heated through. Check and correct the seasonings and fold in the cilantro. Serve hot, at room temperature, or cold.
Serves 6
Panch Phoron (5 Seeds)
- 1 tablespoon brown or black mustard seeds
- 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
- 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
- 1 tablespoon nigella seeds
- 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds
Combine all together in an airtight jar. If stored in a cool dark place these spices can be kept for up to a year.
To say that Sophie Rahman is well-traveled is to make a big fat understatement. Born in Pakistan to an English mother and Indian father, Rahman married young and followed her husband around the globe, starting with a move to England in her early 20s. Fueled by visions of heady, brightly colored spice market visits with her father and the memory of her mother’s market-inspired home food, she began to hone her cooking skills, testing dishes on hungry friends and family. A move to Tokyo presented an opportunity to learn about the business side of the food world, helping her husbands’ family market the Indian curries, chutneys and pickles that they imported.
Throughout the years of globe-trotting, Rahman found herself in Portland on multiple occasions and finally in 1996 she realized that our fair city was calling to her and lucky for us she decided to settle down here, bringing with her a deep passion for and a desire to share the gustatory joys of Indian food and cooking!
Finally in 2009, after many years of involvement with farmers markets around town, she opened Masala NW, where she offers private, hands-on, Indian cooking classes. Many classes begin with a visit to the farmers market, where both teacher and student gather inspiration from the local bounty and the farmers who grow it. An afternoon of cooking together culminates in a lovely meal enjoyed together, a perfect option for a low-key bachelorette party, or just a fun girls afternoon together.
Find out more about classes offered or about Ms. Rahman and don’t forget to come visit her this Sunday at the Market, You’ll get to watch her in action and taste something locally exotic.
In the meantime, tide yourself over with her favorite lentil recipe!
WHOLE GREEN LENTILS WITH SPINACH AND GINGER
- 7 oz whole green lentils, picked over, washed and drained
- 1 ¼ pints water
- ¼ tsp tumeric
- 4 tablespoons of oil
- 1 – 2 fresh hot green chillies (for less heat, remove seeds) finely sliced
- 1 – 2 tsp very finely grated fresh ginger
- 8 well packed tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
- 1 large bunch of fresh spinach, washed and chopped
- 2 teaspoons salt
- ¼ tsp Garam masala
- 2 tablespoons lemon juice or more according to taste
Put the lentils and the water into a heavy pot add the turmeric and bring to a boil. Cover, turn heat to low and simmer gently till tender (about half an hour).
Over a medium flame, heat oil in a large enough pan to hold the spinach. When hot, put in the chillies and the ginger. Stir and fry for 10 seconds. Add the fresh coriander and spinach. Stir and cook until the spinach has wilted. Now put in the cooked lentils and the salt. Stir to mix and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook very gently for 25 minutes. Add the lemon juice and stir to mix, sprinkle with garam masala, cook uncovered for another 5 minutes. Check seasonings.
The youngest of five kids, Jason Patrick McCammon was raised in Eugene, Oregon surrounded by hazelnut orchards, walnuts, apple and cherry trees on an urban farm where he and his family enjoyed feasting their way through the seasons every year. His father raised Fryer Rabbits, layer hens, and one pig each year raised especially for the family, while his mother took charge in the kitchen, canning, pickling her way through summers bounty, stocking the pantry full of sunshine-kissed food to coast the family through the dreary winter months.
Though as a child McCammon dreamt of being a welder, it’s not hard to see why he ultimately became a chef – with all that great food in his blood, it was surely inevitable. As soon as he turned 18, he found himself working his way through various mom and pop restaurants, slowing working his way up toward more find dining gigs. He credits a particularly elaborate, multi-course dinner at King Estate Winery for 200 people where dinner was topped off with a standing ovation for the chefs as the moment when he finally saw that he would be a chef for life.
Soon after, he pursued his newly realized passion at the New England Culinary Institute, graduating in 2001 with Distinction. Today he is influenced and inspired by local chefs like Toro Bravo’s John Gorham and Laurelhurst Market’s Ben Dyer as well as the old greats like Jacques Pepin and Julia Child.
Born into a food service oriented family, Multnomah Athletic Club sous chef Dax Erickson’s fate was basically sealed from day one. By the time he got to college, chef Erickson was working in restaurant kitchens as an easy and familiar way to support himself, but it quickly became clear to him that in fact this job-on-the-side was where his real passions lay. Erickson moved to Portland in 1990, jumping right into the midst of our fair city’s gastronomic awakening. Lacking any formal culinary training, he was fortunate to work under and learn from some of Portland’s most talented chefs – Phillipe Boulot and Franz Popperl to name a few.
Today, Erickson expresses his passion for food right alongside another passion of his; health. Lucky patrons of the notorious Northwest Portland institution, the Multnomah Athletic Club can indulge in his seasonally inspired dishes anytime and this weekend you can too at his not-to-be-missed chef demo. We hope to see you there!
For a taste of things to come at the demo, cook up a batch of Dax’s favorite Osso Bucco. Happy cooking and see you at the market!
Dax Erickson’s Favorite Osso Bucco
- 3 lbs. Veal shanks
- 3-4 T extra virgin olive oil
- 2 T butter
- 1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
- 3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 large stalk celery, coarsely chopped
- 5-6 cloves garlic, chopped
- 1 14oz can diced tomatoes
- 1/3 cup dry sherry
- 1/3 cup brandy
- 1 T balsamic vinegar
- 2 T tomato paste
- 1 sprig rosemary
- 4 sprigs thyme
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 cups beef stock (Veal stock can be substituted)
- Salt and pepper to taste
- In a large skillet or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, add 2 T olive oil over medium high heat. Season shanks with salt and pepper on both sides, then brown them on all sides. When browning is down, remove the shanks to a bowl to be added back in later.In the same pan, reduce heat to low and add 2 T olive oil and butter.
- Add the vegetables and garlic. Stir well to coat, then cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally, this will allow the vegetable to sweat (release their juices). Usually about 10 minurtes or so.
- Add the wines, the tomatoes and the vinegar. Stir in well, cover again, and let simmer on low for about 6-8 minutes.
- Make a “bouquet garni” out of the rosemary, thyme and bay leaves. (Wrap them in cheese cloth and tie with cooking twine.) Add this to the simmering vegetables, along with the tomato paste. Increase heat to medium-high and add the shanks and chicken, veal or beef stock. Stir both in well to mix with vegetables.
- When broth is boiling, reduce heat to low again and cover. Cook for about 1-1 ½ hours. Veal should be “falling off the bone” tender after an hour or less.
- Garnish with gremolata, and serve with risotto, or with mashed potatoes. Eat up and enjoy!
Braised Rabbit
2 ½ -2 ¾ lbs rabbit cut into serving sized pieces 1 cup Rice flour 2 Tblsp butter 1 ½ cups chicken or vegetable stock 4 oz bacon lardon 2 cloves garlic minced 1 cup mushrooms (wild preferably) 6 oz Dry red wine 2 Tblsp Parsley chopped 1 Tblsp Tomato paste ½ Tblsp Oregano chopped Salt and pepper to taste One pan method 1. Season the rabbit with salt and pepper to your liking. 2. Dredge the rabbit in the rice flour. 3. Heat a large pan to medium high and add the butter and bacon. 4. When butter is melted and just starting to brown add the rabbit and sear till a dark golden brown on both sides. 5. Remove the rabbit from the pan and set aside. 6. Deglaze the pan with a splash of chicken stock. 7. Add the onions garlic and mushrooms and sautee. 8. When vegetables are cooked al dente add the wine and the rest of the stock. 9. When stock begins to simmer add tomato paste and stir till it dissolves completely in the liquid. 10. Place rabbit back into pan. 11. Sprinkle herbs over rabbit. 12. Cover and simmer till rabbit is cooked through. This will depend upon the size of portions that you have chosen to prepare. Cooking times are very similar to chicken.